New from NPR 雌雄莫辨的超級名模
雖說他一直沒有出櫃(he's still not out of the closet)
對於愛男人還是女人也沒鬆口(is he bi-sexual?)
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Heard on Tell Me More
April 2, 2012 - JACKI LYDEN, HOST:
Now we turn to the story of a surprising success in the world of fashion. Androgyny陰陽人(雌雄同體) comes and goes in the fashion world, but one male model takes it to the extreme發揮到極致 by modeling clothes for both men and women.
Andrej Pejic is gaining notoriety惡名 in high fashion高級時裝, even as most men who bend genders混淆性別 face a tough time in society. NPR's Beenish Ahmed caught up with him at a recent photo shoot拍照 for Out magazine.
BEENISH AHMED, BYLINE: In a converted改裝過後的 warehouse studio in New York City, Andrej Pejic takes a final sip喝了最後一口 of his Earl Grey tea. His ivory skin象牙白的肌膚 and platinum blonde銀金色 hair glow散發光澤 as he steps into position就定位 against a stark white全白的 background. The photographer raises his camera.
UNIDENTIFIED MAN: Andrej, keep moving around here.
ANDREJ PEJIC: Yes.
AHMED: Pejic seductively充滿誘惑力的 arches his thin frame弓起他削瘦的身軀 into four big, buff高大且粗壯的 male models. He angles his baby soft face towards the camera to accentuate強化 his cutting cheekbones醒目的顴骨(要臉很瘦的人才會有cutting cheekbones圓臉人甚麼bone都不會有喔).
Brent Coover is fashion editor of Out magazine, which is geared towards目的/往…方向 a gay and lesbian audience(也就是說，Out Magazine的閱讀群多半是同性戀). To him, Pejic's androgynous look means fashion doesn't have to be about macho men粗壯威猛的大男人 any more.
BRENT COOVER: For so long of my life, I had to look at images of male models who are super muscula肌肉多多, super hunky漢草勇壯的猛男, look like Ken dolls芭比娃娃的男伴. And maybe it's time to see another concept of what a man can be.
AHMED: Coover thinks models with an ambiguous曖昧模糊的 gender性別 help expand the idea of beauty beyond masculine and feminine archetypes原型(就是男生要高壯且肌肉結實，女人要有曲線).
Andrej Pejic remembers being pushed to被迫 give up playing dress-up小孩子玩家家酒扮裝 in heels and skirts as a child.
PEJIC: I was told that I had to be more boyish and did that social role, but that didn't make me happy and it didn't really work.
AHMED: Pejic was born in Bosnia波士尼亞(南斯拉夫中部，曾為土耳其的一省) and fled with his Serbian塞爾維亞 mother and brother to a refugee camp難民營 when the war broke out, then on to Australia. His Croatian克羅埃西亞 father stayed behind.
Pejic started modeling after an agent經紀人 approached him in a McDonald's he worked at in Melbourne墨爾本. After graduating from high school, he moved to Europe to pursue modeling full time成為專職模特兒. One of his first big jobs was for French Vogue.
PEJIC: I just walked on the set and they said put him in a Fendi dress because that's what's going to look good, and they were right.
AHMED: Pejic quickly started to get more work in women's wear than men's and unlike that Fendi dress that just happened to fit, top designers began to make dresses with Pejic in mind.許多大牌設計師開始以Pejic為靈感設計時裝
AHMED: In this Cinderella story灰姑娘故事, Pejic's moment at the ball人生最重要的轉折點 came last year. The eminent知名的 and envelope-pushing前衛大膽的 designer Jean Paul Gaultier sent Pejic down the runway in a sheer bridal gown新娘裝. He had hardly walked 10 steps when the room burst into applause全場熱烈鼓掌.
PEJIC: I felt like the happiest bride.
AHMED: And why not? Pejic's career is sort of a fashion fairy tale童話故事 on fast-forward這句話是形容Pejic除了入行機緣有如童話故事那般夢幻，且幸運的際遇還不斷快轉，迅速將他推至名利的頂峰. Pejic has worked with some of the world's most celebrated designers全球最知名的設計師 and he's only 20. He has a serious presence in the industry在高級麻豆界享有一席之地, but many people outside of it don't know what to make of him可是很多圈外人卻不曉得該怎麼樣去看待他這個人.
JEANNE MOOS: How do you prove your pushup bra魔術胸罩 can push up even the most miniscule bust超貧乳(這句話是說，如何證明魔術胸罩的神奇功效，讓胸部最小的女生也能擠出一條事業線)? Have a man model it那就讓男人來穿不就行了，如果男人都能擠得出奶，所有的貧乳族都有救了.
AHMED: That man, as CNN's Jeanne Moos noted, was none other than Andrej Pejic. He appeared as a buxom blonde豐滿有奶的金髮人 in plunging necklines穿著低胸上衣 in posters for a bra by Hema, a Dutch dime store荷蘭知名的平價商店(很像台灣的大創39元商店). Pejic admits it was sort of a gimmick手法/噱頭, but says in the end...
PEJIC: It did work. I think the bra did sell.
ASHLEY MEARS: Fashion models are these desired goods that also lend value to commodities.時裝模特兒是搶手貨，這些人能賦予商品依定的價值
AHMED: Ashley Mears worked as a model to inform her book about the inner dealings內部的真實運作狀況 of the fashion industry. She says the ads Pejic's used in could backfire會產生負面作用/適得其反 when consumers learn he's actually a man. That's partly because Pejic plays into one of the biggest criticisms of fashion models - that they're way too thin. And designers only want to showcase women who look like young boys.
Pejic's been called fashion's greatest insult污辱 to women, but Mears says Pejic isn't the problem.
MEARS: Fashion has been insulting women for a long time with unrealistic body standards不切實際的身材標準.
AHMED: Pejic's unique ability to go from menswear to women's wear has captivated擄獲人心/讓人目眩神迷 the world of fashion, but Pejic says he's not out to change the world. He's just doing his job. Up next, he'll be featured in ads for Jean Paul Gaultier's new cologne.
Beenish Ahmed, NPR News, Washington.
LYDEN: If you'd like to see photos of model Andrej Pejic, log onto NPR.org and select TELL ME MORE from the Programs tab.